Everybody has a recipe for the “angry pasta” and I have mine. It’s fast, tasty and easy to make. And unlike most of the recipes for Arrabiata floating around the Internet, I’m going to tell you exactly why I make this the way I do.
Bob’s Fast Arrabiata Pasta
version 8
Makes four medium-sized bowls. Takes around 20 minutes to prepare.
In addition to the usual kitchen hardware you will need:
- a Peking pan, wok, karahi or large sauté pan
You will need the following ingredients:
- 500ml of ground, un-salted Roma tomatoes or similar plum tomato (18 oz)
- 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup of chopped onion (about half of an average sized one)
- 1/4 cup of chopped carrot
- 4 average-sized cloves of garlic, finely chopped
- 1 tsp of finely chopped oregano
- 1/2 tsp of finely chopped basil
- 1 medium-sized dried cayenne pepper
- 1 tsp or so of sugar
- 2 tbsp or so of Parmesan cheese, preferably freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- 400g of penne pasta (or any noodle, really)
20 minutes to make… doesn’t it take hours to make a pasta sauce? Not in a sauce pan it doesn’t. A Peking pan is ideal. This is nothing more than a wok with a flat bottom (or a fry pan with deep, curved walls). We are going start this as a soffritto, which extracts flavour from the ingredients fairly quickly.
Fresh ingredients are always preferable, but I find that fresh tomatoes do not work well in this recipe because they simply aren’t being cooked for long enough. The sauce comes off like more of a salsa. You can cook them long enough in the pan, but then the sauce takes more like an hour to cook. Anyway, most of the tinned, crushed tomatoes you get at the grocer work well here, though you can make your own (see below). As for spices, oregano dries fairly well, but if all you have is dried basil don’t even bother with it. The cayenne pepper sounds scary, but in reality it yields less than half a teaspoon of flakes when crushed up. The reason we use dried cayenne is because fresh cayenne has a tendency to make the sauce a little too… angry. As an alternative, you can use a teaspoon of mild red pepper flakes or two tablespoons of a fresh mild red chili (like an Anaheim). And as for the carrots… trust me. Carrots are good in pasta and good for you too.
To begin, start the process of boiling the pasta water. Chop up the onion and the carrot. Heat up your pan. When it is hot, put in the oil and throw in the onion and the carrot. Cook them slowly, on a medium-low heat, stirring frequently so the carrots don’t burn. Finely chop up the garlic. About halfway into being cooked (maybe 5 minutes), the onion will become less white and more clear. This is the time to throw in the rest of the ingredients except for the sugar and cheese. As soon as the garlic starts to go a little golden at the edges (this will take only a minute or two) dump in the tomatoes, leaving the heat where it is. The heat from the pan will warm the tomatoes quickly and the sauce will soon start bubbling. Soon after this, the pasta water is going to boil, so drop in your pasta.
Cook the sauce on medium for maybe 15 minutes, stirring frequently, as it will bubble furiously if you don’t. If it looks too thick, add a bit of water. Give it a taste. You may find the sauce needs some sugar, but not always; this largely depends on who made your tomatoes. If you cooked your own tomatoes (see below), you almost always need to add the sugar. The amount is a guideline only. You can stir in a bit at a time as the incorporation of sugar into a sauce is pretty well immediate. Don’t worry about salt — we’ve got that covered.
That’s it, the sauce is done. If your timing is on, your pasta is done too. Plate the penne, dump on a heap of sauce and top it with the cheese. The cheese is the only source of salt in this dish and is important to the flavour we’re after so don’t be afraid to use it generously — like a heaping teaspoon per bowl. Hey, it’s cheese, nothing wrong with that.
Variations
Mushrooms are good in this. Add one cup of chopped ones along with the onion. You will need another tablespoon of oil.
This sauce is easily turned into a blush sauce by mixing in a quarter cup of table cream right at the end.
Turning this into a ragù is also easy. Take 400 grams of ground beef or pancetta and simply cook it along with the onion and the carrots. When the meat is close to being cooked, add the rest of the spices. When the meat is cooked, add the tomatoes. The ragù will have more volume and I find takes closer to 30 minutes to stew in the pan.
Making Your Own Tomato Sauce
If you are really hardcore, and want to impress the heck out of your dinner guests, you can make that 500ml of tomato sauce from scratch. It is easy, but takes around 45 minutes. You will need:
- a blender
- a pot
- 10-20 Roma tomatoes (or other fleshy plum tomato)
The reason the number of tomatoes varies so widely is because the size of tomatoes varies so widely. Ultimately, we are after 500ml of cooked tomato so err on the side of having too many.
Some time before, put the tomatoes in the freezer. They will keep there for years if packaged well. When it comes time to actually use them, pull out the tomatoes and put them into a big bowl. Nuke them in a microwave until they are soft (10 min or so). This will produce mushy tomatoes (some will be hot!!) and a fair bit of juice. Their skins should come off easily. Pull off the skins making sure to keep as much of the pulp as you can. Discard the skins. Blend everything else in the blender until smooth. The pre-tomato sauce will be pinkish in colour and there will be a fair bit of it, well over a litre in many cases. It will smell like fresh cut tomato.
Pour into a larger pot, bring it to a frothing boil then back off to a medium heat. Let it gently boil away, uncovered until it is cooked, a process that will take around 30 minutes and make your house smell like Italy. Sometimes a dark red scum will form on the top. If there is a lot of it, scoop the excess away with a spoon. The sauce will have the following attributes when cooked: its colour will change from pink to deep red, pretty well all of the froth will go away, and it will be reduced by maybe half, becoming the consistency of a thick tomato juice. A taste test will confirm that it no longer tastes like fresh tomato but like a cooked tomato sauce. Measure off the what you need and store any extra as it will keep for weeks and can be used for all kinds of stuff.